Stew of the Earth: Springs

Stew of the Earth: Springs

Nourishing Body, Mind, and Community

Culinary Artistry Rooted in the Land

In the heart of the Azores archipelago, a culinary tradition simmers beneath the earth’s surface, waiting to be uncovered. Welcome to the town of Furnas, where volcanoes have carved out a uniquely vibrant landscape and the land itself becomes the stovetop for a legendary dish known as Cozida das Caldeiras.

Furnas is a place where the boundaries between the natural and the human-made blur, where the earth’s geothermal activity powers not just the local infrastructure, but also the very meals that nourish the community. This is a story of how the elemental forces of our planet can inspire and shape a cuisine, one that celebrates the interconnectedness of all things.

Volcanic Landscapes and Culinary Alchemy

Stepping into Furnas is like stepping into another world. The Azores Islands, situated between Europe and North America, are a tapestry of lush greenery, moody skies, and the ever-present rumble of the earth’s inner workings. Furnas, in particular, is a town hemmed in by fumaroles, geysers, and hot springs (caldeiras) – a veritable outdoor oven, where the ground hums, hiccups, and hisses with heat.

It is within this steamy, otherworldly environment that the local cooks have learned to harness the earth’s warmth to create their signature dish, Cozida das Caldeiras. Also known as Cozida das Furnas, this stew is a testament to the culinary alchemy that can occur when we work in harmony with our surroundings.

The process begins with a carefully curated selection of meats – chicken, blood sausages, ribs, bacon, pork belly, and even pigs’ ears. These ingredients are layered in a stock pot, with cabbage, carrots, potatoes, and garlic acting as a verdant bed. The pot is then lowered into one of the 50-odd geothermal cooking pits that line the shore of the town’s lagoon. Managed by the Municipality of Povoação, these pits are lined with concrete and marked by wooden signs, each claiming its own fumarole for a local restaurant, family, or visitor.

Ingredient Purpose
Assorted meats (chicken, sausages, ribs, bacon, pork belly, pigs’ ears) Provide the protein and rich flavors
Cabbage, carrots, potatoes, garlic Add texture, nutrition, and depth of flavor
Geothermal heat from the earth’s caldeiras Slow-simmers the stew for 6-8 hours

Without the need for any external heat source, the volcanic steam cooks the stew to perfection over the course of 6 to 8 hours. The ingredients slowly release their own juices, creating a rich, flavorful broth that requires no additional water or stock. It’s a testament to the power of patience and the earth’s natural gifts.

Recipes as Culinary Scores

As I ponder this unique cooking method, I’m reminded of how recipes can be seen not just as a set of instructions, but as a kind of culinary score – a script to be interpreted and performed. What if we approached cooking not as a rigid formula to follow, but as an opportunity to engage with the environment, to let the land itself shape the final dish?

The Cozida das Caldeiras certainly embodies this approach. Its ingredients and sequence are important, but it is the where – the volcanic setting of Furnas – that truly makes this stew come alive. The earth shares its warmth, and the local cooks are clever enough to cruise for it, to coax it to prepare their dinner for free.

This concept of “culinary scores” or “culinary formulas” resonates with me as I consider the interconnectedness of eating, ecology, and the unintended consequences of our actions. As the philosopher Timothy Morton reminds us, “ecological awareness is awareness of unintended consequences.” Cooking, in this light, becomes an environmental act – one that requires us to attune to the world around us, to the unseen forces that shape what ends up on our plates.

Nourishing Body and Soul

As I savor the Cozida das Caldeiras at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel, I’m struck by how this dish goes beyond mere sustenance. It is a culinary embodiment of the Azorean landscape, a tangible representation of the volcanic forces that have sculpted this island chain. Each bite carries the essence of Furnas, of the hissing fumaroles and bubbling caldeiras that permeate the air.

But the nourishment provided by this stew extends beyond the physical. There is a deep sense of connection to place, to tradition, and to the natural world that infuses every spoonful. In a world that often feels increasingly disconnected and unstable, the Cozida das Caldeiras serves as a reminder of our fundamental ties to the earth and to one another.

Wellness and Mindful Living

At Café Mila, we believe that true nourishment encompasses not just the body, but the mind and spirit as well. That’s why we strive to create an environment that fosters holistic well-being, where our guests can find respite, inspiration, and a deeper appreciation for the world around them.

Just as the Cozida das Caldeiras harnesses the earth’s natural energy, we aim to cultivate a sense of mindfulness and connection within our own walls. Through our seasonal menus, wellness workshops, and community events, we encourage our patrons to slow down, savor the moment, and find joy in the simple pleasures of good food, good company, and a deeper understanding of their place in the grand tapestry of life.

Celebrating Local Producers and Sustainability

Integral to this holistic approach is our commitment to sustainability and supporting local producers. We work closely with farmers, artisans, and purveyors in our community to source the freshest, most flavorful ingredients for our dishes. By forging these connections, we not only ensure the highest quality, but also foster a deeper appreciation for the people and the land that nourish us.

Just as the Cozida das Caldeiras relies on the volcanic landscape of Furnas, we at Café Mila strive to create a menu that celebrates the bounty of our own region. Whether it’s the bright, verdant produce from our nearby organic farms or the artisanal breads and cheeses crafted by local artisans, every element of our dishes is imbued with a sense of place and a commitment to sustainability.

Cultural Immersion and Artistic Inspiration

But Café Mila is more than just a place to enjoy a delicious meal – it’s a hub for cultural exploration and artistic expression. We host regular events and workshops that invite our community to delve into the rich tapestry of global cuisines, traditions, and creative pursuits.

From live music performances that transport you to distant lands to art exhibits that challenge your perspective, Café Mila is a space where the boundaries between food, culture, and the arts blur, inviting our guests to expand their horizons and connect with one another in meaningful ways.

Coffee and Tea: Rituals of Connection

Underpinning all of these experiences is our deep appreciation for the rituals of coffee and tea. At Café Mila, we source our beans and leaves from the most conscientious producers around the world, ensuring that every cup is not just a delightful sensory experience, but also a celebration of the people and the land that brought it to life.

Whether it’s the rich, bold flavors of our single-origin espresso or the soothing, fragrant notes of our hand-selected teas, each beverage is an invitation to slow down, to savor the moment, and to connect with the world around you. It’s a ritual that mirrors the slow, patient cooking of the Cozida das Caldeiras, a reminder that the best things in life are worth taking the time to truly experience.

Nourishing Body, Mind, and Community

As you step into Café Mila, you’ll find yourself immersed in a world that celebrates the intersection of food, wellness, culture, and the natural environment. It’s a space where the lessons of Furnas – of harnessing the earth’s gifts, of embracing patience and mindfulness, of fostering community and connection – come to life in every aspect of the experience.

Whether you’re savoring a steaming cup of artisanal tea, indulging in a seasonal dish made with locally sourced ingredients, or exploring the latest artistic installation, you’ll leave Café Mila feeling nourished, inspired, and connected to the world around you. It’s a place where the “stew of the earth” is not just a culinary tradition, but a way of life – one that we’re honored to share with our community.

So come, pull up a chair, and let the warmth of Café Mila envelop you. Together, let’s celebrate the abundance of our planet, the richness of our diverse cultures, and the power of food to bring us closer to one another and to the natural world that sustains us all.

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